Most loved French Style Muses are not French



Jane Birkin, Bristish

Jean Seberg, American



Anna Karina, Danish

 

He who wears an army parka, proves he did not go to war

Vintage Menswear

How can you not succomb to the beauty of a parka or another vintage army garment when you see  its utility and luxury of the fabric and natural accessories? We may invoke all beauty laws but wearing military parkas just makes us silly teenagers, affectionate clowns and proves we did not go to war, as an acquaintance said. However, when you see how the mass production shops copy them year after year, you treasure the antique ones and wear them, kidding yourself you are a beauty warrior.

Home sewing - 50s fabric

Steve or Paul?

 

And the answer could be Alain. But I am talking about Steve Mcqueen or Paul Newman. And I have to choose Steve and his desert boots as Paul wore loafers and this says a lot about one`s character... Though, if anyone could give some virility to loafers was him,but no, still no.

 

Blue Man in Bucharest

100 years in glasses

Best Fashion films

Perfect films that you do not want to share with anybody, so you just retire to your chambers alone and have a splendid weekend.

Qui est vous, Polly Maggoo? 1966, Klein, (first film on fashion, an ironic stance, it is on the net)
The Secret World of Haute Couture - BBC Documentary (you can still see it on youtube)
Diane Von Furstenberg with Karl Lagerfeld, JohnWeitz, Betsey Johnson Fashion Interview to see how things worked in fashion 30 years ago, a delicious vintage footage for the details observers  (you can still see it on youtube)
And last, for those of you who still dream, Envoyé spécial - Le luxe ne connaît pas la crise, to see how Louis Vuitton, Made in France, has got its biggest factory in Sibiu, Romania, here on youtube.

Siberia- the real expedition clothes

 

Siberia, Krasnoyarsk january 2013 - Fishing man dontown-


 

Expedition is the winter word in fashion these days with the Louis Vuitton collection etc. and watching the pastiche clothes I could only think of nouveau riche homes in comparison to the Toscana old palazzos. 

 

This chap here is coming back from a working fishing day on the Yenisei River where he sat fishing at -25. He is wearing Valenki boots made of felt.

 

 

Converse / Buttero/ Paul Harnden

Who does not count on white converse for a forever young attitude? With a classic gray suit so that you do not look like a clerk, for those white jeans and brown leather jacket or that mini denim skirt with a white tshirt?

But what do we do with all the calluses, blisters, the pestilential tiger odours, the back pains?

So you start cheating on Converse with Buttero exquisite sneakers who has understood all our needs, you grow up and you buy ballet flats, CDG mary janes, artisanal leather brogues made by that family in Tuscany.

But somehow you are nostalgic and wish Converse would hire an old school pattern cutter and beg Paul Harnden to craft a pair, leather innersole and lining, with a thorough study of the human feet but keep the cool outside classic design.




Buttero

Les Galoches / Best men`s winter shoes

 

Galoshes cannot be more functional and stylish than this.
Dress your shoes for snow, rain or just cover them up to protect them against dust and time wear. Or just make a change, and mix brown and black.

Galoshes from French galoches or dickersons,  overshoes or swims now are rubber boots that you just slip them off in Moscow airport, put them in a carry plastic bag and way to go to a business meeting in London, if you are Tyler Brule and make everybody roll his eyes (with envy) or just protect your good shoes and get honorably to work by taking the tube. It is the little pleasures, really.


Around 69 pounds from swims, here.

First, at highschool, colleagues used to mock at our grandfathers` chunky galoshes, but nowadays, they come in a noble form. Besides, let them mock at you, at least now you do not ruin your expensive leather shoes every winter. And no more shine polish, just slip the galoshes off and there you go. No more scratches from bicycling either.

Galoshes in this form date back from the 19th century. It is in USA that they rediscover them and wear them in a stylish way as Europeans who had to survive the war loathed them because they reminded them of the poverty they had to endure - in the 40s they replaced leather shoes with wooden galoches-

Some of their ancestors >

or wooden heeled ones

 

 

 

 

Of course, women who wear high heels in snow or rain are not forgotten

or the flat version for leather women boots, if you still buy leather boots for winter and not the equestrian ones.

We never have enough white Tshirts

The white cotton Tshirt was first introduced by the American navy army as uniform underwear during the American Spanish war. But in fashion we owe it probably to Tenesse Williams and his character Stanley Kowalsky (aka Marlon Brando in a Streetcar name desire) a former army sergeant in WWII who is vulgar enough to receive guests in his underwear white Tshirt.

Then, just like with denim, the white Tshirt had all the qualities to become a hit later in the 60s: it was functional, cheap, hand washable and its lightweight fabric made it more comfortable in summer. Besides, it looked good.

Of course, the success has to do with tradition as well because it is a natural esthetical sequence of a little bit of white collar, at the front opening of a men`s shirt- the jabot, later the plastron; the white lace collar dress that garnished a gown or white lace trimming which emphasized the blue of a wedding dress.

Blue ciel or light pink flatter us all as it sweetens and refreshes the features, that is why so many men resort to blue or pink suit shirts. You wake up with a pale or hangovered swollen face, well, a bit of blue or light pink at the collar does the trick and saves the day effortlessly.

But there is nothing like white. Reminding us of aristocracy- elegancy and power-. The only inconvenient? T-shirts are made of cotton so you need to be in good shape to wear it as it gives you away. Or you have to go for the more expensive draped deconstructed avantgarde tshirts if you want to cover things. Needless to say good cheap simple Tshirts used to be made at Hennes, remember the thick white quality cotton? Good old times. Well, now when you look at how transparent and thin the H&M basics became we need to be more creative and we seem to be short of good cotton simple Tshirts. So we end up buying them from the lingerie boutiques, children`s or men`s shops.

Cellulite on The Sartorialist

Well, there you have it. Real fashion.

Because she had her photo taken, this beautiful lady probably  got nervous and lost countenance and flexed the leg, such a beginner`s faux pas. What was she thinking?! Never let your emotions get to you. Always take matter in your hands and think. Study yourself seated in front of a mirror. Clean the mirror and turn on the lights. You must never cross your legs naturally but gently place the leg or just keep it in the air. A certain grace is always welcomed…

This reminds me of a scene in Alien, when at the end Sigourney Weaver in a gray cotton tshirt and white underwear stands by the spaceship`s bed and we get a close-up shot on her back and the focus shows us some cellulite and stretch marks. And yes, the film won the 1979 Academy Special Effects Award that year so we do not understand…was she human or alien?

Chic ski costume?

Jean Patou 1930 - Ski costume-

Ah, so it is possible...

Intellectual clothes

You will be surprised to find out that clothes and style are not vital needs, meaning we can live without them. Neither are laughing, culture, friends, alcohol, etc. But since we have decided not to live like apes then we fill our lives with these unnecessary things according to our taste. And taste cannot be disputed they say but we see it can be educated.

If clothes had a social status role in the past in recent fashion it`s rather about creativity, message and comfort. Clothes can still be beautiful but they need to be practical too.

Starting with the 80s with Issey Miyake, Comme de Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto and then the Belgian school it is more about who you are and not what you have. In their collections, men and women do not look like machos and sexy women. When you meet people make a thorough selection from the start and attract them with your mind instead of those tight fit jeans that stop me from concentrating or that décolletage that makes me agree with anything you say.

It is not a flattering scientific cut like with Dior or YSL that can make you look 2 sizes thinner or lascivous. Most of the clothes seem accidents, unseamed as the Roman noble togas, unisex like ancient Greek noble costumes, using new fabrics and cuts but as well sensual decadent folds or plaits. They are comfortable clothes, some continue the line of home cosy clothes and talk to you being ironic manifestos or telling you stories - I am beyond trends, men and women walk on the same catwalk as pavements, I am dressed and I can still move, I am a rebel but with a cause: I want you to stop looking and start thinking about me. I am human and I want to be desired so that`s why I need mistery. Therefore distance. Fabric distance from the body.

The history of these clothes: Roman togas, Japanese kimonos, military costumes, coal miners, working class practical clothes, war privations that lead to creativity, bohemian writers wearing jackets with holes, artists shirts stained with paint. The avantgarde takes the best from the past and adapts them to our times. Unisex baggy silk or wool trousers, draped cotton tshirts, modern black tailcoats and flat unisex shoes. For work or parties. Quality made clever clothes (slow shopping - they last long and suit all occasions).

And even though the big design houses & the magazines go on telling us to be feminine meaning attractive or look virile manipulating our ego, playing with nostalgia or making us dream we are something we are not, reality, comfortable beauty are kind of winning the street. In spite of Karl`s genius and Anna`s marketing skills, the comfortable and flexible clothes are winning. And it was not an accident, neither art. But reason.

Siberia - the Mondrian bird

Le jaseur boreal or bohemian waxwing in English, the coolest bird in Siberia. I wonder if Mondrian was a birdwatching aficionado. Bygones. These birds present in all northern countries are all over the town eating rowan and singing being one of the reasons we would look up from the icy pavement or the warmth of the wool scarf in harsh winter days.

Bad gifts and we are worth the presents we receive

 

How hysterical we are with presents, indeed. But do not get too intellectual and anti-consumerist about it, we are all sensitive to a bit of attention, a nice thought and a proof of friendship. But if you are tired of it, you might have a break and decide all of you not to offer yourselves presents this year.

However, if you do decide to make gifts though and do not make an effort either by spending so that it hurts a little or by getting through a bit of trouble then the person is not worth it. How do you know you chose a good gift? Well, it is not that difficult, presents must be thoughtful, valuable or hard to find. Or at least practical. To keep it safe, it is all about empathy and attention, of course. And about always unwrapping the presents with a full stomach, in the middle of the soirée, when everybody is just tipsy not drunk to avoid dramas.

Artists or writers that offer you their work as gifts... books, photos, films, paintings...other than that they really know you want something or like their work or they are Picasso (so you can quit your job by selling it), well, no. Offer them back an Excel report next year. Framed, mais oui bien sur.

Always check, doublecheck what your parents are buying your partner. Better buy the presents yourself and get reimbursed. Make threats, knee but do not give your mother the chance to destroy your marriage or holiday. Sizes, taste, colours, value, do not let anything to chance. This is what love is about. Care, restraint, being thoughtful...

To a passionate antique collector couple you do not offer teacups from Zara House.

Hermes scarf for your intellectual mother-in-law who always makes stances on how brands manipulate your brain and football wives etc. What a gaffe!

Do not buy books to a philistine. It is about them, not about you. If you wish they read more then change friends.

A yearly boats magazine subscriprion for your father who is into hiking? Exactly, my thought as well. Or exquisite cashmere jumpers when you know he does not care and he will wear them when hiking?

Now do not get smart when it comes to intimate things, perfume, jewellery, watches, soaps, bags...people are faithful to their tastes and make very particular choices.

We all know some men are so difficult to be offereed presents but come on, make an effort, a lighter, cigars, wine, is that all you can come up with? Now that you mention it though, with the tobacco prices and all, we do not mind a carton, better dull than garbage.

A new pair of ski trousers hoping he will finally get rid of his old loved ones? Nope. It is saint, a present from his mother and no, buying him a new pair is like throwing it...

Do not offer table coffee books you bought in sale for all your friends. We all knew about the sale...

If you are on a budget, make something; striped knitted wool socks, home liquor, sew some kitchen towels out of cool fabrics, etc.

Nothing more boring and impersonal than flowers and alcohol and sweets! Jesus. What did I do wrong to get flowers?

Better buy small and good than big and cheap. (A Chanel lipstick versus a supermarket brands cosmetic kit).

Funny bagatelle chinese stuff? They do not call it rubbish for nothing.

Ebay, etsy, online invoices... Because you did not forsee shipping they are stuck in customs, they are on the way, you know how Italian post office is...good intention is not enough.

Teenagers girls love Topshop and there is nothing you can do about that. For now, that is. They are 13, give them a gift voucher and they will be happy even though they will throw the clothes away after 2 weeks.

Andrei Rubliov prints

1408

Do not waste outfits

 

In the old days people used to dress according to their occupation. Nowadays it is more difficult as taste gives us away.

Some outfits work everywhere, a good shabby leather jacket and a long silk black jumpsuit fit any context, whether a wedding or just going to have a coffee in town.

Still, there are some occasions where you should not waist statement clothes as people are going to missunderstand them.

You cannot go to a let`s say village in Romania and buy bread wearing a Mondrian sweatshirt as people are going to think you are a good patriot because you are wearing the nation`s flag colours.

Or think a diplomat party context where you go in black avantgarde Comme De Garcons. You will be asked if you are a rock band fan.

Do not wear stripes when you go to a party held by a museum or art gallery where cool people hang around. Other people will bet on the same so you will be predictable.

Beautiful hoarding

Muff bag - Keep your hands on your money

Cultural gaffes on clothes

V. Ericksen. Equestrian portrait of Catherine the Great wearing trousers, 1762.

It was Marlene Dietrich who kind of vulgarized trousers and helped us, but we have to thank Manchester women in the coal mines in the 19th century and Catherine the Great and the Amazons.

Unsewn seams does not mean just poor or... avantgarde. The rich Roman noble people wore their costumes seams unsewn and even ruffled as clothes did not have to last.

When you hunt, do you hunt because you do not have money to buy meat? This is what happens with vintage clothes as well.

Chanel`s famous tailleur has got its sleeve edges double seamed to resist more, it was the 50s and war and poverty cultural habits remain. (normally a jacket starts to wear at the collar and sleeve edges).

What the hell is happening with unisex clothes everywhere? And all these women dressed as men and men dressed like women? Nothing new here. Think about the old greeks and how ressemblant the costume was for noble men and women.

Making fashion move-Fashgif

A funny approach on fashion on this blog

Chanel clever clothes

 

The 2 tone women shoes, black and white, were her original design but as well they made your feet look smaller and black heels and points last longer.

 

She is famous for not adjusting the women skirt to the Courreges mini skirt fashion as she considered knees to be ugly. What she meant is very few women have beautiful knees so the rest should cover them. And she is so right. The most flattering form of skirt for women`s legs is just below the knees.

The chanel tweed jacket can be transformed inside when you get pregnant or fat. Paneling in a Chanel jacket makes it possible for the jacket to expand three sizes of its original design. Sewn into the hem—a gold-coloured chain ensures it hangs properly from the shoulders.

Long Nails -subculture

Medium long natural nails like white clothes always meant status in Europe- old money people who did not have to work.
After the revolutions, when the bourgeoisie and then the working class took over and adjusted the noble mores, the plain laquered short nails or red polish short ones became the prerogative of good taste or chic, to make a difference.



Supermarket cashier

Nowadays, those long nails and bling polished nails are read as Loubotins, funny and not comfortable. Even though they prolong your fingers making your hands look thinner it is read as a sign of pretending. The chit chat would be, frustrated working class women, demonstrative inmigrants and the kind, look at me, I might be a concierge but I do not have to do the dishes. What it is true is that if they want to show off status they should wear simple cut nails so that we see they take care of their urban villa gardens.



Bling bling

Playgirl

Uite, fată, cum e cojit peretele

Michael Eastman

Confident & indiscret

Le confident

L`indiscret

You first sit on le confident, the S shape 2 places bench and you confess yourself and then move on l`indiscret to pass it on.

Vintage Big E Levis

Isteria de câţiva ani buni în a găsi o pereche de jeans dinainte de 1971 sau mai vechi, cu eticheta roşie de pe buzunarul din spate cu marele E (e-ul cu literă mare), the big E, ne arată iar ce înseamnă să ştii să vinzi, să creezi fidelitatea produsului, obsesia posesiei unui lucru frumos dar şi util, rezistent dar şi cu un chichi, un mit deci bani din ...dintr-o poveste. Şi America ne-a dat mereu lecţii în a vinde şi a păcăli masele.

De la mineri şi văcari până la Vogue ce de abia în 1988 recunoaşte realitatea şi promovează jeansii pentru prima oară pe coperta Vogue, ca piesă haute fashion. Prima copertă a Annei Wintour (adevărata femeie de afaceri a modei) pentru Vogue America, junk de luxe, în 1988 cu Mihaela Bercu, o fotomodelă româncă de origine evreiască, îmbrăcată în jeans acizi şi un tricou cu o cruce cu pietre preţioase Christian Lacroix de 10.000 de dolari, o dacie.

Dar putea să facă Vogue ce voia, era târziu, Levis era deja o istorie a Americii şi/sau a comerţului genial.

Acum ne rămâne frumuseţea unui jeans decolorat vechi ce nu poate fi imitat şi vânzoleala în jurul levişilor dinainte de 1971 care te face să cauţi bezmetic prin gunoaie şi să te gândeşti la levis ca la un bun de colecţie şi de trai.

Gecile şi cămăşile vintage, dinainte de 1971, cu marele E pe eticheta roşie cu levis se vând pe la câteva sute de dolari. Ce e mai vechi mult mai mult. Dar jeansii, pantalonii, sunt cei valoroşi. Dacă dai de o pereche cu marele E, capse ascunse în interiorul buzunarelor, XX pe eticheta cu mărimea de pe spatele pantalonului, aţa roşiatecă ce se face şi roz cu vremea în interiorul pantalonului, jos la cusătura tivului, nuanţa e de indigo profund (şi nu cel de cocalar de azi), albastru clasic al jeansului...îi vinzi cu 4000-5000 de dolari pe ebay.

Evident, la noi, dacă nu aveai rude imperialiste, pârjolite de comunişti în străinătate, cu gusturi pentru modern şi cu bani totuşi (o pereche de levis originali erau scumpi atunci), care să îţi trimită nişte levis folosiţi în ţară când ei îşi luau altă pereche, printr-un securist ce se dădea prieten şi călătorea, dacă nu vândusei un tablou la schimb pe o pereche de levis unui evreu cunoscător negustor ce avea rude în America şi care făcea speculă, dacă un bunic de-al tau nu îşi încercase norocul prin America după aur, dacă ai tăi au vizitat America dar nu erau agricultori sau muncitori ca să folosească un pantalon rezistent (un pantalon socialist, în fond), e greu să dai de o piesă vintage anii 70 sau antică (secolul 19-1920) ca asta în pod. Dar există şanse să mai găseşti piese vintage (de colecţie, dinainte de 71) pe la târguri şi seconduri. Mitul continuă. Se vând cu mii de dolari pe ebay. Şi apoi, chiar dacă ai tăi erau hipioţi şi au purtat jeansii în 60 dar au făcut curăţenie bine de tot în pod si în garaj, alungându-şi nostalgia, atunci de unde să îi mai iei... Hoarderii sunt de apreciat când vine vorba de colecţii căci ei nu sunt selectivi dar nici nu aruncă nimic.

Desigur că am scotocit podul imens al casei. Dar nu e aşa usor, e un roman rusesc acolo, cu multe generaţii. Nu am terminat decât jumătate şi am dat de nişte perechi superbe. Wrangleri din 68, Lois din 70, Levis din 75 atât de iubiţi şi purtaţi şi peteciţi încât au devenit superbi şi preţioşi. Toată viaţa părinţilor în haine. Si ce materiale, ce pete, ce decolorare...Mai cu seamă când vezi ce mizerii face Levis acum. Sau Balmain ce face jeansii cei mai tociţi şi doriţi zilele astea, dar na faux vintage rămâne tot fals.

Unii Lee ai lui tata, stau în picioare şi acum după 40 de ani, atât de bun şi scorţos era docul ne prespălat. Domnule, dar stăteau în picioare nu ca flenticile de acum... Vestea proastă e că am gasit o geantă făcută de cineva din familie din petice, dintr-o pereche de levis vechi...dar speranţa continuă căci încă nu am dat de jeansii mamei din 68, pe care îi ştiu din pozele ei din studenţie. Se plătise o avere pe ei, se milogise la o rudă din străinătate etc etc.

Ce emoţie. Vânătoarea. Imi place ideea de a îi găsi şi a-i ţine pentru copii, (chipurile pentru ei, mamă, pentru cine altcineva, pentru ei facem tot...) sau de a-i folosi la o nuntă etc unde se scot smaraldele sau levisii vintage.

Dacă găsiţi vreo pereche să ne spuneţi şi nouă povestea! Musai! şi să ne trimiteţi poze pe care le vom pune aici la colecţie pe blog şi în curând vă arăt şi eu achiziţiile familiei.

Pentru încurajare şi imbold, uite şi câteva filme scurte şi documentare -

A riveting Icon, un documentar despre istoria levisului la care participă istorica specializată în Levis, Lynn Downey.

Cea mai veche pereche de jeans sau levis, e acelaşi lucru, s-a vândut cu 25.000 dolari pe ebay, cumpărată de Levis ce îşi reface arhivele, aici., arhive ce au ars la un moment dat, veţi vedea în film.

Iar dacă aveţi mai multe comori perechi, ca să nu le vindeţi prost sau să vedeţi dacă nu erau falsuri căci şi în 70 erau falsuri, luati-vă cartea despre levis de pe amazon sau scrieţi la Levis şi trimiteţi poze pentru o evaluare de la mama lor, San Francisco, emailul pe www.levistrauss.com .

Best women`s t-shirt is a men`s t-shirt

De câte ori caut un tricou alb decent mi-l cumpăr de la bărbaţi.

Jak and Jil

I wish there were more ironic stylish photos like this one from  http://jakandjil.com/ on street fashion blogs. To make a European stance.